(After returning and skimming through the printed version of my sabbatical blog I realized I had missed blogging about a very significant experience in the Philippines. So this one is definitely out of order but a “must be included” for the journey.)
Tuesday, March 2, we took a ferry from Manila to Corregidor, a small rock island just off the southeastern coast of Bataan, Luzon, Philippines. There a major American contingent was stationed before the war to protect the shipping lanes in the Manila Bay and the South China Sea. Its guns could reach the Bataan Peninsula but defending Bataan was not its primary reason for being. Because of this the contingent was not as able to do much to help defend those on Bataan and because the airfield filled with American planes had been bombed to smithereens the American and Filipino troops on Bataan were left virtually defenseless and unable to be resupplied or assisted. My dad was not on Corregidor but he talked about it a lot. Corregidor was where MacArthur left from after the fall of Bataan and it is where he returned to after the surrender of Japan.
Not by planning but by providence we just happened to be there for a special celebration. It was the 65th anniversary of the return of Gen. MacArthur to the Philippines. You may remember his promise when he left, “ I shall return.” He did. Unfortunately for the Bataan forces it was almost four years later when they were initially expecting him to return in a matter of weeks! We could see Bataan from the Island and got a better geographical picture of what happened. We stayed in the Corregidor Inn overnight and had a taste of the locals as we were invited down by the beach for some appetizers and domestic beer. All were very tasty!
We received this invitation because we met the guide from our tour and he was from Minnesota! I had been corresponding with him about helping us on our Bataan tour but we were not able to connect due to some unfortunate turn of events. But when we met after the tour, we visited with him and his wife (Steve and Marcia Kwiecinski) who now live on Corregidor and are working with the Filipino organization that is trying to restore and promote the Island. We had a great visit with them. And because I knew he knew so much about the whole Philippine Island part of the war I asked him about a possibility.
You may remember from one of my previous blogs that we ran out of time on Monday and I did not get to see some important places related to my dad’s experience. One was Mariveles which was the primary location of the start of the Death March. It is on the very southern tip of Bataan and it is where most of the troops surrendered and were gathered for the march. This is really the OOkm
Marker. We had visited Bagac on Monday which was the location where a few troops on the western side of the island were gathered and began their march. Another 00km marker is located there. But my dad began at Mariveles. On a map we received at a tourism center Drew and I noticed that there was a boat transport service from Corregidor to Bataan near Mariveles. It can’t hurt to ask, right? So I asked Steve if there was any chance we would have time on Tuesday morning to take one of those boats and get to Mariveles and do part of the Death March route and return in time to catch our ferry back to Manila. Holy cow (naku po, in Tagalog), he said yes! I was so thrilled. This is one thing I really wanted to do—to start at the beginning where dad started and walk a piece of the Death March route.
Well, we really walked a piece of it! We took a Bangka (outrigger boat) from Corregidor to Cabcaben, then a tricycle (motorcycle with a sidecar) to the highway to catch a bus to Mariveles, about 17 km. There we saw the 00 Death March Marker where my father began this horrific march. Silly me. I cried again! Then we began our walk 17 km back to Cabcaben knowing that we could wave down a Jeepney (a open air jeep modified into a little bus) or another tricycle anytime we needed to call it quits.
We ended up walking the entire 17 km, a little more than 10 miles, back to the bay to catch our outrigger boat back to Corregidor. I got to walk ten miles of the Death March route! I cannot believe it! I walked for almost three hours in the hot sun where my dad walked 68 years ago, almost to the day. The difference? I was well fed, not sick, and I had bottles of water galore! Plus I used an umbrella the last four miles or so. I felt guilty drinking water and having shade! I felt like I needed to walk it without water and without shade! My dad did! And so did almost 70,000 other men. They walked 5 times as far, day and night with only one stop for some food and water. They were severely malnourished when they began and most were seriously ill with malaria, beri beri, and dysentery to name just a few of the diseases they suffered from. My dad turned 21, twenty days before he began this march. What a way to mark the passage into adulthood!
It was a privilege just to walk a small part of this route and to see the terrain that my father saw. I got to walk 10 miles of the march!
As I looked around I saw the mountain range off in the distance. My dad saw these. Along the road I could see artesian wells. My father talked about these and what hazards they became as thirsty starving men broke lines to try and get a drink. They were killed for trying. I could still see nipa huts made of grass and bamboo that my father had told me about in his stories describing the countryside. As we passed fields of rice and sugar cane stories my father told me flooded my mind and my eyes filled with tears. We
passed several domestic cattle that stopped their grazing and chewing to see these strange foreigners walking along their pastures. I could not help but think of a Gary Larson cartoon and its possible caption. My father told me stories of stealing and killing and eating these domesticated cattle in order to stay alive during the battle for Bataan. I am healthy and was well fed at the time and had bottles of water on demand. I had good walking shoes and an umbrella to shield me from the sun. I could stop whenever I wanted and rest or flag down a ride. I was walking this path freely of my own choosing. My father walked it at the end of a bayonet with men falling and dying all along the way. He walked it not for 17 km but for 70 or 80 km day and night for five days without rest or sleep. He had an empty stomach and no water. He could not stop and rest and he had no shade. He was not healthy. He was malnourished and sick with malaria and beri beri and severe diarrhea. This road, this very road my feet were on was the same route my father walked. Asphalt now covered what was mainly a dirt highway then but this was the path he took. And I was on it. It is impossible to describe all the things that I felt on this part of the journey. I want to come back and walk the whole route! I am so thankful that I asked Steve about this. And so grateful he and Marcia were willing to accompany us to help navigate all the local transportation.
Steve’s dad was stationed on Corregidor which is why he and his wife are living there and helping to preserve the history. But his dad was also at O’Donnell and Cabanatuan, the two POW camps my father was in. (It was in conversation with Steve that I learned I had been taken to the wrong Camp O’Donnell monument.) They likely crossed paths sometime during those months and years! So it was really special to be able to visit with him and compare stories. We also got to “talk Minnesotan” so that was fun, too.
Steve and I talked about how amazing it was that our father’s were so positive. Steve’s dad, like mine, never said a bad thing about anybody. My dad always saw possibilities and always made things work. He was definitely a “glass half full guy.” So was Steve’s dad. How did this happen when these men suffered so much? Four years of their lives were stolen and filled with brutality and torture. But always they had a smile and always they were positive. We both agreed it was a combination of their faith, the choices they made, and the character they had developed. Some POW’s did not come out this way. I realize how much my dad influenced my outlook on life. Being around him made me a more positive person and a person who always sees possibilities—to a fault perhaps. I can be overly trusting and optimistic and, as a result, often disappointed. I remember dad saying, “don’t believe anything you hear and only half of what you see.” This was in relation to hearing rumors or gossip or anything that put others in a bad light. Later a prominent theologian I read said, “assume the best of possible motives to others.” My dad taught me it first.
My dad was forged by war. Our family was, too. And much of what America was able to accomplish and become, I believe, is due to the character of these men who survived WWII and served their families and their country as well after the war as they did during the war. My dad was a serving man. He was a man who appreciated every day of life and every plate of food and every friend and acquaintance. He was amazing. Walking part of the Death March has taught me more about why he was this way.
On the ferry return to Manila, I sketched a picture of the 00 marker at Mariveles. As I drew, I cried. But I am so grateful for the time and resources to do this. I feel like I will be sketching and painting for the rest of my life.