I am back in Hong Kong after returning from my “Unfinished Business” trip back to Manila, Philippines. I am so glad I took the time, energy and expense to return. I had missed so much! In one day I was able to see the sites and memorials related to the two POW camps my father was in. This was a return to many tears for sure. But they were tears of joy as well as sadness. I could write a book (I might!) but for now I will try to focus on two main experiences to represent this incredible day I had returning to the Philippines.
I had seen the beginning kilometer markers for the Bataan Death March. Now I was seeing the final markers. KM 109, 110, 111 and 112. At KM 109 there is the memorial at the location of the train station where after over 60 miles of marching the POW’s had been loaded–actually packed like sardines only standing up—for another several kilometers to this train station where they were unloaded—many of them dead from suffocation and complications of the heat and their malnourished and sick bodies—then those that survived the boxcars were marched again for another 2-3 miles to Camp O’Donnell.
KM 110-112 are marked along the final road to Camp O’Donnell. At KM 112 there is another small memorial to the Defenders of Bataan and Corregidor. The marker is not the same as the other 111 but it is surrounded by beautiful fuscia bougenvillas. Another stunning contrast and there were many more to come. All of these are located in the city of Capas, and the province of Tarlac.
This is the real terminal point of the Bataan Death March. The one I saw last week was a memorial park in Capas to the Filipinos who suffered. It was nice but it was not the actual site of Camp O’Donnell. This was it now—the place my father was for the first two months of his 3 ½ years as a POW. A place where after almost 20,000 died getting here, another 10,000 died in the first two or three weeks at the camp.
As you approach you can see the main monument over a mile away. It is a very tall dark concrete pointed obelisk that is actually made of three separate obelisks connected by several circles. It is a stunning presence in the landscape. It does not fit in but it feels like it belongs. The entrance is a wide and beautifully landscaped marker that says “Capas National Shrine.” The usual green and white sign like the ones we have in the US also welcomes you to the Capas National Shrine. And yet another sign explains who is responsible for the Shrine. As you enter you cannot see the obelisk. It is hidden behind some of the trees planted around the entrance marker. But as you pass the entrance marker you can see it. A wide concrete parqueted walkway leads several hundred feet to the monument. It is massive, but somehow gentle—another contrast. In a month when the country celebrates the anniversary of the beginning of the Death March this place will be filled with visitors and ceremonies. My driver tells me that in days gone by several bus loads of veterans and their families would come each year. But as this Greatest Generation has aged, fewer and fewer buses come. All the more important that the descendants of these heroes of history keep the memory alive! This day, I am the only visitor at the monument. I am surprisingly glad for this. This is such a personal journey for me I am grateful to be alone.
But before we go to the obelisk, we drive around the left side of the monument area. There are rows and rows of trees planted on both sides of the walkway and we are driving along the one side and I am so grateful for whoever planted these. It makes the place feel so much warmer and redeemed. I notice to my left there are cows and goats in a pasture behind barbed wire—60 some years ago there were men here imprisoned by barbed-wire. On this side of the monument property there are several small memorial structures and plaques. The main one is to all those who died at this camp. It is a replica of the original white cross that was erected here to remember those who died. The original is in Andersonville, Georgia at the national historic site. All I could do was kneel down and touch the word O’Donnell. This is where my father was. I cry because I thank God he survived. I cry because so many did not. The inscription on this marker says many things but it ends with, “freedom is not free.” I knew this before. I know it on a different level after this pilgrimage.
I am now walking toward the main monument but coming from the left side. Along this path is the only remaining railroad boxcar like the ones the POW’s were loaded in at San Fernando and brought to Capas. Imagine the sudden horror when men who were starving and deathly ill had been walking for almost 60 miles and now saw that they were going to be taken wherever they were going by railroad. They must have assumed this would be a great relief. They were wrong. They were crowded in with standing room only and many suffocated or died of complications related to their malnourishment and disease in the 110 degrees plus heat of the cars. When they opened the doors in Caps, as many dead bodies fell out as living ones climbed out. I wanted to open the door and look in. I could not. But no one who was not there can begin to imagine the sounds and smells, let alone sights these boxcars held. There is a large welcome sign made out of concrete letters right in front of the box car—another contrast. Visitors now are welcomed to see a railroad car that was an unwelcoming tomb for many.
Then after just being in this space for awhile I continued walking to the center monument. This is a gorgeous structure. Besides the imposing obelisk that strangely seems austere and gentle at the same time, there is a huge arched wall in four pieces surrounding the monument. Made of black marble, all of the names of the Filipinos who served are inscribed on these walls along with two or three poems written by exPOW’s and an etching of one soldier bearing up another holding a flag. The monument resembles the Vietnam Wall in Washing DC, if anyone has seen that memorial. In between the four pieces of the oval that surrounds the monument are beautiful flower boxes and off in the distance is the serene landscape of the now peaceful countryside of Capas, Tarlac, Luzon, Philippine Islands. And it was especially meaningful to find the name of Jaime Marcelo 3Lt on the wall. He is the father of Ellizabeth Evangelista, a member of First Pres Downey. He was also a Bataan Death March and Camp O’Donnell survivor. While I was in Manila I had the privilege of talking to him and his lovely wife about his experience during the war. Over and over again all I could do was thank God for this opportunity to be in this place and see and touch what I was seeing and touching. Over and over again I thanked God for the resources—time, energy, and finances—to be able to make this journey.
After less than two months the Japanese transferred all but a few hundred prisoners to another camp—Camp Cabanatuan. It was hard to leave O’Donnell but I did because I wanted to make it to Cabanatuan before the day was up. We had another two plus hours to drive to get to the memorial site of Camp Cabanatuan. It is located in the city of Cabanatuan, the province of Nueva Ecija. Today Cabanatuan is a thriving, bustling city. The streets are filled with people and tricycles (open air taxi’s made of motorcycles and custom-built side cars of every color and style that comfortably seats two but often is filled with three or four people for economizing travel) and cars and people. When we came to the monument it was quiet and serene. Again, I was the only one there. The entrance gate was open and there was a long grass covered road (just two slight tire tracks tracing gently through the grass) leading up to the monument several hundred feet away. Young trees lined the way and barbed wire fence again held domesticated animals on my left and separated the monument area from a children’s play area on the right.
I walked toward the monument and could see as I approached a very well kept landscaped area that surrounded it. There was an American flag and a Filipino flag flying one on each side of the monument. It is beautiful and simple and is inscribed with the letters CABANATUAN. I again knelt down and just touched the letters of the inscription. And, again, I cried. My dad was here! In spite of his disease riddled, malnourished body he survived here for more than two years before he was sent to Japan to work in a copper mine.
The Cabanatuan Monument is set on a large concrete platform. Again, behind the monument are two walls with the names, I thought, of those who died here. I remembered as I was here that my mother’s brother, Billy, died during the war and likely at this camp. So I went to the wall to see if I could find his name. I found a William Davis but was not sure of his middle initial. I took a picture of the name since it was the only William Davis on the wall. Like O’Donnell, today the surroundings are serene and beautiful. Green rice fields and pasture land as far as the eye can see. Again, barbed-wire fence now encloses domesticated animals where once human beings were enclosed and treated worse than animals. It was again staggering to think about the amount of suffering that took place on this land. I was glad for the flowers and trees planted and growing and for the care the property was being given. The only other person there besides my driver was a caretaker who was raking leaves from the grass off in the distance.
It was hard to leave this space, too. But it was now past three in the afternoon and we had at least two hours to return to Manila. I would have time while in the van on the way home to look at my pictures, journal a little and reflect on what I had seen and touched this day. Over and over again, I prayed, Thank you Lord for this day, for this space, for the privilege of being here and walking this path my father took so long ago. It was definitely worth coming back—every penny and every minute of missed sleep and every ounce of energy. Thank God I came back! I had finished my business in the Philippines. And what a surprise I found when I began looking at pictures in the van on the way home. Stay tuned!